Matanza Traditions

For most of us—especially those living in cities—keeping pigs isn’t exactly a realistic hobby. Unless you’re taking care of one as a pet (they’re surprisingly great companions) or diving headfirst into pig farming, it’s not something people usually do casually on the side. And it’s definitely not something most would expect to do just to give the meat away for free.

But in New Mexico, the matanza—an annual pig slaughter and feast—was never about making a profit. It was about sharing. That was the point. Because even one pig produces far more meat than one household could eat, unless they had a freezer the size of a walk-in closet. So the whole village shared.

In his book Memories of Cibola: Stories from New Mexico Villages, rancher and historian Abe Peña captured the importance of the matanza in his hometown villages of Cibola County. He described it not just as a food source, but as a “social event, a working feast, and a ritual.” The idea was simple: the whole community would come together to process one animal, and everyone would share the results. The family who raised the pig didn’t hoard the meat—everyone pitched in, and everyone got a share. Later in the season, another family would do the same. And another after that. The sharing just kept going.

A photo from a matanza at Eduardo Otero’s ranch in what is now Bosque Farms captures that spirit—dozens of hands working together, not just for food, but for fellowship.

Today, that kind of traditional matanza—where everyone rolls up their sleeves and gets involved—is rare. Most of us aren’t farmers. And when we see matanza flyers now, they’re usually advertising ticketed events, fundraisers, or farm-to-table festivals. You’re not expected to help butcher the pig—but you might get a delicious plate of carnitas.

Still, the spirit of community labor is alive and well. There are all kinds of ways to bring that old-school matanza mindset into modern life:

• Volunteer days at local farms are especially common in the fall.
• Round up friends or family and split a big burlap sack of freshly roasted chile, then host a chile-peeling party.
• Team up with organizations like Food is Free Albuquerque to pick fruit from yards where it might otherwise go to waste.
• Ask for help with your own seasonal project—like prepping your garden for winter or pulling weeds. Offer food afterward. You’d be surprised how fast people show up.

Turns out, when food is involved, people are more than happy to help. Sometimes the only thing standing between you and a community is an invitation.

Delicious Things

The community table—once a staple of social dining—is nearly extinct. Some folks would rather wait 30 minutes than sit beside a stranger. And to be fair, we’ve had our own days where we’d rather go hungry than be stuck in a conversation we can’t escape. But when the sun is high and the mood is right, there’s something comforting about sharing a meal with whoever ends up across from you.

That’s what happened at Cafe Pasqual’s, where we shared a massive combo plate at the communal table before heading off to explore SITE SANTA FE’s 12th International. The chile relleno? A masterpiece. Light batter, deep smoky sauce, chile with real bite, and enough cheese to make you raise your eyebrows—before scraping every last bite off the plate.

Amuse-Bouche

There’s a new sommelier at the Rosewood Inn of the Anasazi. Kristina Hayden Bustamante has stepped in as wine director, bringing experience from local institutions like The Compound and Palace Prime. She’ll be collaborating with executive chef Cristian Pontiggia—formerly of Sassella—so you can expect some standout pairings at future Wine & Chile events.

In other news:

• Stackers Burger Co. and Tikka Spice of Albuquerque cleaned up at the Green Chile Cheeseburger Smackdown, taking both People’s Choice and Judges’ Awards.
• The Secret Judges’ Award (from mystery tasters who show up unannounced) went to Umami Moto.
• Over at the NM State Fair, Isleta Grill took top honors for the second year running.
• The Hillsboro General Store Cafe, down in ghost-town territory, just landed a $50,000 grant as one of 50 historic U.S. eateries to receive recognition from a national preservation group.

Entrances & Exits

• Salad Fe, a new salad-focused eatery, is opening at DeVargas Center in Santa Fe. Here’s hoping it delivers on the name.
• In downtown Albuquerque, Mañana Taco is moving into the little red building that once housed Little Red Hamburger Hut. Their Nob Hill truck will still be around, though.
• Clay Pot Ethiopian Cuisine now has a brick-and-mortar restaurant in Paradise Hills. They’re currently taking reservations by message or email.
• Slow Roasted Bocadillos is back, rebranded as SRB Sangwich Shop at Marble’s Downtown Taproom. Expect sandwiches with serious staying power.
• Sadly, Greenside Cafe in the East Mountains reopened—and closed again shortly after. Its future remains uncertain.

Occasions

• Green Jeans Farmery celebrates its 10th birthday today from 2–7 pm. Expect burgers, brews, and the possibility of a new four-legged friend.
• Los Luceros Fall Festival returns tomorrow with performances, science fun for kids, and food trucks including Fusion Tacos and Vigilante Pizza.
• Sunday at Grams, hosted by The Kitchen Table Santa Fe, offers a communal Italian supper by Chef Michael Dooley with proceeds going to the International Folk Art Market.
• Santa Fe Sake Day at Izanami is happening September 23. If sake on a Tuesday afternoon is your thing, this one’s for you.
• September 25: The Grove Cafe & Market hosts a five-course harvest dinner by Jason Greene and Juan Restrepo. Seating is limited.
• Also on the 25th: NM ChileJang and Bloom & Flour Pastry team up as Pocha Y Pan at the Albuquerque Social Club. Expect bulgogi cheeseburgers, muchim dogs, and mascarpone cookie sandwiches.
• September 26: Pig & Fig Café in White Rock hosts a six-course wine dinner with Tablas Creek Vineyards. Think duck rillettes and chocolate domes.
• September 27: A sugar skull workshop for Día de los Muertos takes place at Working Classroom in Barelas.
• Also that evening: The Rio Grande Community Farm Market brings Burmese food and North Valley growers together.
• Kicking off next weekend: the Manzano Mountain Apple Festival—with mini animals, face painting, tacos, and bins of apples (not trees).
• September 29: The New Mexico Restaurant Association hosts its annual Hospitality Industry Awards at the Sheraton. This year’s theme is Havana Nights.

Distillations

Will Free Ben & Jerry’s ultimately be as successful as Free Britney was? That remains to be seen, but the identity of the brand has always been as big as its ice cream. There’s something about “Ben & Jerry’s” that would be hard to replicate with a more corporate-sounding name.

Rosé season is nearly over, but late summer in New Mexico still welcomes one last chilled bottle. Local producers have been putting out some beautiful bottles—worth enjoying before the leaves fall completely.