The Bite: Wine and Immigrants

The Hands Behind the Harvest

The Taos Winter Wine Festival wraps up this evening with a Grand Tasting at El Monte Sagrado, and whether you make it or not, the featured wineries and importers are worth exploring—many for their biodynamic and regenerative practices in the vineyard.

Speaking of vineyards: Whatever wine you’re drinking, chances are that it’s been touched by the hands of immigrants. France has long relied on itinerant workers from eastern Europe to pick grapes during the vendange, or crush; these days, pickers in Champagne or Mosel might come from West Africa and Syria as well as Romania. California’s now-struggling wine empire was built by immigrants, and immigrant workers continue to form the backbone of the annual harvest. Upward of 70 percent of farmworkers in the United States are immigrants; around half of those lack legal status, and the majority have lived in the US for years.

“Never forget complexity,” said novelist Valeria Luiselli at the Santa Fe Literary Festival a few years ago. These histories are complicated, from early exploitation of Chinese and Native American workers in California’s vineyards to much more recent accusations of human trafficking in France. The work of picking can be brutal, with hot, long days and, often, a short window. And California’s current struggles have plenty to do with global supply and demand factors that go well beyond labor shortages.

Still, New Mexico vineyards—along with pecan farms and chile fields—struggled to find enough workers for the 2025 harvest. Anecdotally, many growers attributed this to fear of ICE, and that was before Minneapolis. Which leads us to wonder: What will the 2026 harvest look like? Is there still room for dialogue around immigration policy that acknowledges how essential people born south of the border have become to US agriculture—and if more legal pathways open, will anyone trust the process?

Delicious Things

Given our deep affection for fried chicken, it took restraint not to default to a sandwich or plate on our latest visit to K-Style Kitchen. But better than sticking with what we know we love is stretching the palate, which we happily did with a hearty platter of chicken buldak.

Buldak—literally “fire chicken”—was a gochujang dream: saucy, spicy, a little sweet, and deeply satisfying. Rice cakes shaped like noodles added a springy chew that may not be for everyone, but which balanced the familiar textures of chicken, carrots, and cabbage with welcome intrigue. Next time, we’re going all in on the tteokbokki.

Entrances & Exits

Still Spirits has opened a second, more expansive location in Los Ranchos. Known for producing one of New Mexico’s standout London dry–style gins, the distillery has been mixing cocktails downtown since 2018. The new space offers plants, cozy seating, and a patio, with food truck Idaten on hand serving onigiri and okonomiyaki.

In Nob Hill, Tony’s Pizzeria has opened its doors, complete with a Super Bowl party and a menu that goes beyond pizza to include subs—both roasted vegetable and classic meatball.

Seemo’s Slices is now open daily from 11 am to 10 pm. Operated by the team behind Old Town Olive Oil & Balsamic Vinegars, it’s billed as Albuquerque’s only halal pizzeria, meaning pepperoni fans can expect beef-based options alongside green chile.

Starting this weekend, local beef will be available via vending machine at Cottonwood Mall. The Smart Freezer Vending Kiosk features pasture-raised beef from C4 Farms in Tierra Amarilla and select partner ranches.

On Albuquerque’s Westside, Last Call Eatery has closed following a short revival. Owner Luis Valdovinos reflected publicly on the difficulty of sustaining a restaurant today. We’ll miss their house-made tortillas.

Santa Fe now has a new destination for West African cuisine: Farafina. Courtesy of Ceci’s African Kitchen, the menu includes fufu, jollof, Ethiopian favorites, cocktails, and live music.

Stargazer Kombucha is now available in cans at La Montanita Co-op locations in Santa Fe and Albuquerque, with more availability expected soon.

Occasions

High and Dry Brewing celebrates its anniversary today with new beers, music, and food trucks.

Hej Hej will pop up tomorrow at Lasso Coffee & Lager, serving Swedish hot dogs alongside some of Albuquerque’s most impressive lagers.

The next Queer Soup Night takes place February 12 at Tumbleroot Brewery & Distillery, with donations supporting Contigo Immigrant Justice.

Valentine’s Day reservations are filling fast across the state.

In Santa Fe, Alkemē introduces Fire Horse 2026, a Lunar New Year–inspired cocktail, alongside a Velvet Lantern Social featuring symbolic dishes meant to invite prosperity.

Dryland Wilds launches a limited-edition orange perfume on February 14, created from rescued citrus using sfumatura.

On March 22, edible New Mexico and the Southwest Grassfed Alliance host A Taste of Grassfed Smackdown, pairing local meat producers with standout chefs.

Distillations

“The policies of this Administration have caused tremendous harm to US agriculture. But it is not too late to turn this around.” That’s from a letter by a bipartisan coalition of former USDA officials urging Congressional action.

“The road to Guadalajara is a long one,” writes Leah Romero, describing an eighteen-hour drive that leads—via a detour on State Road 28—to Casa El Camino Restaurant & Cantina in La Mesa.