The Life of Food

Spring Issue Feature – edible New Mexico

“Food has a life,” chef Jonathan Perno tells local farm advocate Sarah Wentzel-Fisher. And by that, he doesn’t mean carrots are out attending social gatherings on the weekend. What he means is something deeper—that every ingredient has a beginning and an end. Whether it grows in the soil or comes from an animal, it deserves respect, care, and attention. Nowhere is this truth more visible than in spring, the season of seedlings, renewal, and savoring what the land provides.

This issue of edible New Mexico explores ingredients—the essential building blocks from which food and drink are created. Across these stories, readers meet the farmers, chefs, growers, and artisans who shape the flavors of the region.

One writer, a student of regional wine histories, sits down with local growers and winemakers to discuss hybrid grapes. In a region historically dominated by European vines, these hybrids offer both promise and challenge. They require creativity, patience, and a willingness to experiment—qualities that define many of New Mexico’s agricultural innovators.

In another story, equal parts restaurant news and sustainable kitchen philosophy, Wentzel-Fisher revisits a past conversation with Chef Perno about a surprisingly overlooked culinary technique: listening. Listening to ingredients, to seasons, and to the land itself. That same spirit appears again in a look behind the curtain at Leo’s in Santa Fe, where beautiful vegetables, carefully sourced spices, good fish sauce, and local lamb all play their part—but the most essential ingredient in any great restaurant remains the people behind the kitchen doors.

Local lamb also finds its way into an unexpected dish from Brook Brooks, who shares the story behind a uniquely New Mexican take on dolma. The twist comes from grape leaves trimmed directly from a nearby vineyard—an example of how local ingredients can reshape a dish that traditionally belongs to another part of the world.

Elsewhere in this issue, readers will find an ode to tulsi, the sacred herb long honored in Indian and Ayurvedic traditions that has quietly taken root in high-desert gardens. Route 66 carries us to Albuquerque’s Nob Hill, where smoked beets brighten tostadas and carne adovada chilaquiles remain a local favorite. And the newest installment of Cooking Fresh turns its attention to an ingredient that sparks both devotion and debate: the mushroom.

Coffee lovers will also find something to savor as Nina Katz explores one of the newest trends in the coffee world: co-fermentation. The technique, which pairs beans with ingredients like honey during fermentation, reveals that flavor innovation often grows out of collaboration—between farmers, roasters, and creative minds experimenting together.

If there is one ingredient shared across every recipe and story in this issue, it is passion. These pages are not about pleasing everyone. Instead, they celebrate the beauty that appears when people boldly pursue what they love and value. As the growing season begins, we are fortunate to be surrounded by those gifts.

Cook the Cover

As the cover image for our Spring issue proves, few vegetables display nature’s beauty quite like the watermelon radish. With its mild, slightly sweet flavor and crisp texture—finished with a subtle peppery bite—it becomes the perfect canvas for an herb-forward dressing.

Carpaccio, named for a sixteenth-century Venetian artist known for his use of red pigments, traditionally features paper-thin slices of raw meat dressed lightly with olive oil, lemon juice, salt, and pepper. But the same preparation can be used to highlight a single vegetable—and the vibrant, red-hued watermelon radish may be one of the most stunning examples.

Local Hero Nominations Now Open

Here is your chance to recognize the hard work of the food and farming organizations that champion farm-fresh, locally produced food across New Mexico.

Each year, edible New Mexico hosts the Local Hero Awards—people’s choice honors nominated and voted on by readers. That community participation makes the recognition especially meaningful to those who receive it.

Awards across twenty-seven categories are open to any New Mexico food or farming organization, business, or individual located within the state. Anyone may submit a nomination, and voting in twenty-three categories will be open to the public. Self-nominations are accepted.

The Olla and Spotlight Awards recognize cumulative achievement, and recipients are not eligible to win more than once within the same category.

Nominations remain open through April 5, 2026. Public voting will take place from April 27 through May 26, 2026, with winners announced on July 1.

A Taste of Grassfed Smackdown

Sunday, March 22 – The Bridge at Santa Fe Brewing Company

Spend an unforgettable day celebrating the region’s dedicated grassfed ranchers—each paired with talented local chefs who will transform their proteins into inspired dishes. The event highlights the deep connection between ranchers, chefs, and community members, offering a deeper appreciation for the stories and stewardship behind every bite.

Featured Menu

• Ardovino’s Desert Crossing – Tuscan Mole Taco with Pecan-Smoked Lamb
• Mañana Taco – Smoked Lamb Barbacoa Taco
• Manko Native American Fusion – Cloud Tamale Waffle with Smoked Brisket
• NM ChileJang / Poche y Pan – Shio Koji Galbi Lamb Riblet Ssam
• Noah’s Table – Smoked Tri-Tip & Cajun Crawfish Toast
• The Compound – From Scratch Smashburger
• VM Coffee – Straight Baller Meatball Sub

This immersive experience builds meaningful connections between producers, chefs, and the wider community—celebrating the craftsmanship and care that shape every plate.

Indigenous Foodways Festival

The Indigenous Foodways Festival celebrates the vibrant, living culinary traditions and ancestral knowledge of Indigenous peoples across the Southwest.

Through storytelling, cooking demonstrations, hands-on classes, art, and shared meals, the festival uplifts Indigenous voices while creating space for connection, understanding, and community.

Its mission is simple but powerful: to honor the ways Indigenous food traditions sustain culture, identity, stewardship of the land, and the generations still to come.