There is a little town nestled in the Sangre de Cristo mountains of northern New Mexico that transports you straight back to the Old West. Red River, once called River City by the prospectors who first settled there, has a timeless charm that’s hard to resist. After the mining boom faded in the late nineteenth century, homesteaders took over the vacated cabins and began renting them out to lowland neighbors looking to escape the summer heat.
Today, Main Street is lined with rough-hewn wooden buildings, flower baskets bursting with color, and wagon wheels decorating shopfronts. Benches shaded by tall trees invite you to sit, breathe in the crisp mountain air, and simply soak in the view of towering peaks all around.
Something for Everyone
Red River has a little of everything: fishing, go-karts, disc golf, ice cream stands, candy shops, biker-friendly stores, souvenir stops, restaurants, and saloons. For wine lovers, the town boasts not one but two wineries.
On the east end of Main Street, Noisy Water’s tasting room sits inside a rustic cabin, complete with a porch perfect for sipping wine. A glass of their Forbidden Sparkling—a crisp, pear-and-citrus chenin blanc—set the tone for a romantic evening. Across town at Sheehan Winery, located in the Alpine Lodge building, the atmosphere felt like a European bistro with colorful patio seating and flowers hanging overhead. A glass of cabernet franc, earthy and fruity with a hint of bell pepper, made the perfect pairing for a warm fall evening.
Dinner and Dessert
Next door to Sheehan Winery is Capo’s Italian Restaurant, where the lasagna with meat marinara is a must. The story goes that the recipe came from the owner’s great-grandfather, straight from Sicily. Before diving into the lasagna, we started with green chile stew paired with a wheat beer from Red River Brewing & Distillery. The hearty chunks of pork and potato, spiced with green chile, paired beautifully with the citrusy wheat ale. The lasagna that followed was everything promised—gooey, cheesy, and full of flavor.
For dessert, we shared the tiramisu. Rich, creamy, and boozy, it was the kind of indulgence you never regret. Seated near the deck overlooking the river and ski valley chairlift, the meal was unforgettable.
A Cozy Stay
Hotel Ryland offered the perfect mix of rustic charm and modern comfort. Our king suite included a sitting room, TVs in both rooms, and a well-stocked bathroom. The real highlight, however, was the covered balcony lined with chairs and tables, making it the best spot in town for people-watching with a glass of wine.
The owners were warm and welcoming, offering tips for exploring the town. Between the grassy outdoor firepit area and the balcony overlooking Main Street, the hotel felt like both a retreat and a front-row seat to Red River life.
Breakfast in Style
The next morning, Old Tymers Café delivered on hearty portions and a fun, motorcycle-themed atmosphere. With hard rock playing and energetic staff keeping things lively, the vibe was contagious. The breakfast enchiladas with green chile—eggs, cheese enchiladas, hash browns, and beans—were spicy, flavorful, and filling. My husband’s go-to, a chorizo breakfast burrito smothered in red and green chile, passed his test with flying colors.
Taking It All In
We capped off the weekend with a chairlift ride to ten thousand feet, gliding above the treetops before reaching the summit. At the top, the Ski Tip Restaurant & Deck offered a perfect place to enjoy a drink while taking in panoramic views of the valley. Even outside of ski season, the area buzzes with activity—hiking, biking, and zip lines keep the mountain alive with energy.
Reflections
Red River may look like a Wild West movie set with its wooden storefronts and mountain backdrop, but the town is authentic, full of history, and alive with personality. Every building, every patio, and every dish tells a story.
For me, it was more than just a weekend escape—it was a rediscovery. Childhood memories of Fourth of July parades and summer festivals came rushing back. Red River hasn’t lost its magic; if anything, it’s grown into it.