Happy Hour on High

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This week, Lynn Cline appraises one of Santa Fe’s newer happy hour offerings. Think small plates, dazzling drinks, staggering views, and, fitting to the genre, pretty approachable prices.

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Happy Hour at 7,800 Feet

It’s not just the lychee martini or the imported artisanal sake that could make your head spin during Izanami’s happy hour on the deck at Ten Thousand Waves in Santa Fe. Perched at 7,800 feet at the outdoor bar, overlooking the valley’s glorious rolling hills in the Sangre de Cristo Mountains, it’s easy to imagine you’re soaring in a small aircraft. Fortunately, servers bearing one small plate after another keep you grounded with Japanese-inspired fare from temaki to tempura.

A fear of heights shouldn’t keep anyone away from this stunning setting. Comfy sofas and chairs arranged behind the deck bar seating provide options for relaxing on the deck without a front-row seat to the jaw-dropping views. Shade sails protect all the guests from direct sun. And like any happy hour anywhere, prices are discounted on select offerings: only $9 for cocktails and $7 per small plate, from signature favorites to surprise creations from the kitchen. Be wise and get there early—and by early, think tea time, because this happy hour runs from 3 to 5 pm daily (excluding Tuesdays). It’s a wonderful spot for relaxing on a sunny afternoon chatting with friends or with out-of-town visitors awaiting their hot tub or spa appointment. And it’s not only a summer thing: This revelry of rotating plates continues into late September and early October, warm weather permitting.

An Afternoon Escape

On a recent Thursday afternoon, a friend and I made the drive from downtown Santa Fe up into the pine-scented mountains to get a flavor for this happy hour concept that launched in June. The ride took only ten minutes, but when we reached our destination, we felt utterly transported. Inspired by the traditional Japanese mountain hot springs resorts known as onsen, Ten Thousand Waves began as a humble bathhouse in 1981. Set among a mountain forest of junipers and stately piñons, the Waves, as locals affectionately call it, steeps visitors in bliss with outdoor hot tub suites, cold plunges, shiatsu massages, and other healing treatments.

Izanami opened on the grounds of this peaceful spa resort in 2013. Celebrated for its eclectic blend of Japanese and other global cuisines, Izanami’s premium sake selection would impress even the most finicky connoisseur of this fermented rice beverage. Mere months after opening, the izakaya-style restaurant was nominated for a James Beard Award for Best New Restaurant.

Views, Vibes, and a Glowing Squid

As we approached the restaurant’s entrance, we were welcomed with a burbling waterfall cascading down natural stones into a tranquil pool. Inside, the scene was more lively. It wasn’t yet 3 pm and already a line had formed, with everyone there hoping to snag one of the deck’s twenty-four seats. Those who missed out could sit inside at one of the ten seats at the Squid Bar, where a glowing orange squid, handcrafted from papier-mâché, dangles from the ceiling like a chandelier. Not a bad consolation prize for guests who miss out on the deck view.

My friend is a sake fan, and after we took our seats at the deck bar, grateful to have scored them, she ordered a glass of Ozé x Rosé. I chose Queen of the South, a cocktail blending Empress Gin, mint syrup, and lime, every bit as refreshing as a classic mojito. The gin’s lavender color sparkled against the azure sky and lush green canvas that unfurled before us. My friend’s sake, however, stole the show. As our server poured the pink rose–colored liquid from the bottle into her glass, he chanted “ototo” until it overflowed into a saucer. He then wished us “peace and abundance,” in the sake-pouring tradition that finishes with the guest sipping the overflow sake from the saucer. The ritual expresses mutual appreciation between the host and the guest, and it was an engaging highlight of our happy hour experience.

Small Plates, Big Flavor

The first small plate arrived quickly, a cool, crisp wasabi Caesar salad. A twist on the classic version, the salad consisted of pale green romaine leaves, nutty Parmigiano-Reggiano shavings, and house-made crumbs of furikake, a Japanese seasoning of nori, salt, and toasted sesame seeds. A light, creamy wasabi dressing brought the ingredients together. A few anchovies sat on the side of the plate, out of respect for people like me who don’t have a positive relationship with this strong-tasting fish.

If a plate didn’t appeal to us, we could pass, but that never happened. Similar to dim sum–style service, new dishes appeared every fifteen or so minutes, and one standout was the nasa dengaku: Japanese eggplant split in half, grilled, painted with a miso glaze, and topped with sliced scallions and sesame seeds. The result was sweet and sublime, a silky symphony of flavors and textures. Next, thin slices of hamachi sashimi brought a delightful buttery flavor, enhanced by jalapeño slices and a tangle of diced bell peppers and cilantro sprouts. The tuna temaki was perfect for summer, a hand roll filled with chopped raw tuna and sushi rice that could be picked up like an ice-cream cone.

We mistook the sweet tofu pocket—creamy rice tucked inside a crispy tofu wrapper—for dessert. And that was fine, until the sweet shrimp tempura arrived. A fried golden coat of crispy tempura perfection enveloped meaty, succulent shrimp, with a kicky pineapple-habanero sauce for dipping—in sum, my favorite dish of the day. When the final small plate arrived, tender pieces of crispy sesame chicken, we had to make room, not just at our bar top area, but also in our bellies. As we finished, dinner guests with reservations on the deck were starting to arrive. It was just after 5 pm and happy hour was over. I knew I’d be back—not just for the majestic views but for all the mouthwatering dishes that remain to be tasted.

Did You Miss It?

Going vegan in Albuquerque used to mean cooking almost all your meals yourself. While the city might not be declared a plant-based haven anytime soon, you can now find vegan pizzas, fry bread, tacos, and burgers. You can join meat-loving friends for Ethiopian, Indian, or Thai. And you can even find places to dine where nary a meat product is used in the kitchen. Vegan or not, these spots are worth checking out.