The Vegan Creamery

By the Book

by Mitch Marty

If you’ve ever stepped outside mainstream American eating—whether by going gluten-free, cutting out meat, or changing how you think about food altogether—you’ve probably been met with confusion, skepticism, or outright resistance (along with the occasional thoughtful accommodation). For a Wisconsin native, giving up cheese can feel almost unthinkable. When Mitch Marty made that choice, the disbelief he encountered was at least as intense as one might expect—and perhaps even more revealing.

While exploring The Vegan Creamery, Marty discovered that people’s attachment to dairy may have deeper roots than preference alone. In this edition of By the Book, he reflects on why people eat dairy, why some choose not to, and how Miyoko Schinner’s latest cookbook reframes nondairy alternatives as achievable, practical, and genuinely satisfying for home cooks.

As I transitioned to a plant-based diet in 2013, one of the most common responses I heard was, “You’re from Wisconsin and you’re not going to eat cheese?” After more than two decades of devouring sharp and aged cheddars, regularly eating fresh and fried cheese curds, and drinking one-percent milk with most meals, giving up dairy felt significant. My decision was driven partly by health concerns, but also by growing unease about animal welfare and the environmental impact of livestock production.

What surprised me most when reading the introduction to The Vegan Creamery was learning that cheese is mildly addictive by nature. The milk protein casein breaks down during digestion into casomorphin, a compound that acts as a natural opioid. When I first went vegan, I experienced a brief sense of loss around cheese, which I had always attributed to the poor quality of early nondairy alternatives. Now, I wonder if there was more happening biologically than I realized at the time.

Years later, I have no desire to return to dairy, and any physiological pull I once felt seems long gone. Still, I remain drawn to the flavors, textures, and complexity of cheese. While store-bought nondairy options have improved dramatically—and artisan vegan creameries now exist in cities like Minneapolis and Austin—it wasn’t until I picked up this book that I seriously considered making cheese myself.

The Vegan Creamery serves both as a love letter to traditional cheese and as a thoughtful exploration of the science and craft behind nondairy alternatives. Schinner traces the long history of plant-based milks and explains how ingredients behave, interact, and transform. Before this, I had made basic nut milks without much thought beyond the recipe itself. Schinner’s explanations of fat content, protein structure, and fermentation helped me understand how those variables shape the final result—and made the process feel exciting. Full disclosure: I never expected to be enthusiastic about working with mold.

The book includes both fast cheeses, which are cultured or fermented but approachable for beginners, and aged cheeses that require patience and precision. Unlike Schinner’s earlier work, cheese isn’t the sole focus. With a persistent sweet tooth, I headed straight for the ice creams and gelatos, starting with a coffee Kahlúa crunch gelato before moving on to plant milks ranging from barley to melon seed to barista-style creamers. The rest of the book covers butters, spreads, yogurts, and creative no-waste recipes that make use of leftover pulp, along with a small collection of dishes that incorporate these homemade components.

Schinner emphasizes accessibility, noting that most recipes can be made with a few basic tools, though a high-powered blender is especially useful. When specialized equipment is optional, she offers alternatives. I wrapped a jar of coconut–mung bean yogurt in blankets and left it near a floor heater to ferment overnight, only to realize later that my pressure cooker had a yogurt setting. For anyone planning to make cheese regularly, a simple proofing box or dehydrator would make maintaining consistent low heat much easier. I’ve already begun researching dehydrators as I wait for my first batch of parmacasio—a grateable, Parmesan-style cheese with green olives and olive brine—to finish aging over the next two to three months.

For anyone curious about making dairy alternatives at home or interested in the science behind fermentation and culturing, The Vegan Creamery is an excellent guide. Schinner’s decades of experience are evident throughout, as is her genuine enthusiasm for teaching. Despite my initial hesitation around unfamiliar ingredients and processes, her detailed explanations gave me confidence. When I made my first fast cheese—a paneer later used in a kale saag soup—I trusted the outcome because the reasoning behind each step was so clearly explained.

Who’s Your Source?

Most base ingredients, such as nuts and seeds, are easy to find at standard grocery stores. Specialty items like white miso, citric acid, psyllium husk, starches, agar powder, mung beans, and shio koji can often be found at well-stocked natural food stores or international markets. More specialized supplies, including bacterial cultures, molds, and less common seeds, may require ordering from specialty food suppliers. Schinner includes a resources section to help readers locate these items, ensuring that even the more technical recipes remain within reach for home cooks.