Vietnamese in Albuquerque

To the surprise of many visitors—and even some transplants from the coasts—the Land of Enchantment is home to a quietly impressive Vietnamese food scene. In Albuquerque in particular, Vietnamese restaurants are numerous, deeply rooted, and consistently excellent. Some have been local fixtures for decades, building loyal followings and earning recognition well beyond state lines. Case in point: Coda Bakery, which garnered national attention as a James Beard semifinalist—an honor that, while unexpected for a bakery, makes perfect sense once you’ve tasted the food. (Tom Hudgens’s “Ode to Coda” offers a revealing clue as to why.)

A recent bout of winter weather—and the undeniable pull of a steaming bowl of phở—sent us back through The Bite’s archive to revisit stories celebrating Vietnamese cuisine in the Duke City. We’re firm believers in honoring cravings when they show up, especially when they lead somewhere delicious.

Bánh xèo may not yet enjoy the household-name status of bánh mì, but according to Bite contributor Tom Hudgens, its moment is coming—or at least it should be. This crispy, savory rice-flour pancake comes in countless variations, shaped by regional traditions and individual chefs’ techniques. Albuquerque’s Vietnamese kitchens offer several takes worth seeking out. Hudgens’s piece “Sizzle” serves as both a guided tour of the dish and an invitation to try making it at home, complete with a recipe for the adventurous cook.

Of course, no discussion of Vietnamese food would be complete without phở. In “Phở-nominal Feelings,” Ungelbah Dávila embarks on an ambitious culinary crawl across Albuquerque, sampling as many bowls of phở as reasonably possible. Her verdict is overwhelmingly joyful, reinforcing a truth known to grandmothers everywhere: a properly simmered broth can soothe just about anything. As a timely bonus, Saigon City, one of the stops on her tour, has recently reopened after a prolonged closure.

Modern life doesn’t always allow for long, leisurely meals—and sometimes dinner has to multitask. Sophie Putka explores this reality in “Double Duty,” highlighting Albuquerque spots where a solid meal pairs conveniently with everyday errands. At 2000 Vietnam, diners can enjoy a generous bowl of steamed vermicelli topped with grilled pork, fried tofu, and an egg roll, then step next door to Saigon Express Emissions Testing to finally check that task off the to-do list. Not every hybrid spot has survived—Putka notes that the T&T Gas n Mart, once known for selling bánh mì and boba alongside unleaded fuel, has sadly closed—but the spirit of efficiency lives on.

Stick with us and you’ll go places—culinarily and otherwise.