A Surplus of Fruit

There’s something special about New Mexico fruit, even if you don’t have fruit trees of your own. When friends offer fresh peaches, apples, or grapes from their harvest, the answer is almost always an enthusiastic “yes.”

The challenge comes when there’s more fruit than you can eat before it begins to lose its freshness. Baking pies during 100-degree weather isn’t exactly appealing, and making homemade wine from a handful of grapes isn’t practical.

That’s where pickling comes in.

Chef David Chang calls pickling the “sixth cooking technique,” arguing it deserves a place alongside sautéing, frying, dry cooking, wet cooking, and combination cooking. In Momofuku, Chang emphasizes that pickling is simple, practical, and doesn’t have to be complicated.

His quick salt pickle method combines three parts sugar with one part salt, tossed with sliced vegetables like cucumbers or radishes for just a few minutes. While those quick pickles are best eaten the same day, fruit benefits from a vinegar-based brine that lasts much longer.

Pickled apples may sound unusual, but they’re surprisingly versatile. They pair well with tacos, sandwiches, salads, cheese boards, or can simply be enjoyed straight from the jar. Chang and chef Joshua McFadden also recommend using pears, melons, and cherries.

For grapes, chef Thomas Keller offers a variation using equal parts water and dry white wine instead of vinegar, creating a bright, flavorful pickle that has become increasingly popular on restaurant menus.

A reliable all-purpose fruit brine combines:

• 1 cup water
• ½ cup rice vinegar
• 6 tablespoons sugar
• 2 teaspoons kosher salt

Stir until dissolved, then pour over sliced fruit packed into a jar. Add herbs or spices such as lemon thyme, peppercorns, or chile if desired. Let the mixture cool before refrigerating until the fruit reaches your preferred flavor.

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Entrances & Exits

Cepa Restaurant celebrated its grand opening in Tularosa. Chef Joshua Cox’s new restaurant showcases Borderlands cuisine with fresh tortillas made from single-source masa harina and a menu featuring dishes such as mesquite bean pancakes, green chile, and machaca. Breakfast is served until 2 p.m., dinner from 5–9 p.m., and the restaurant is closed Tuesdays.

On Old Las Vegas Highway, the former Bourbon Grill Steakhouse has been completely rebranded as Baja Cantina. While ownership remains the same, the menu now focuses on Mexican and New Mexican favorites including chile rellenos and stuffed sopapillas.

Santa Fe Popcorn, previously known for its market pop-ups, has opened its first storefront at 135 W. Palace Ave., Suite 200. Signature flavors include Green Chile White Cheddar and Biscochito Bliss.

After nearly 15 years in business, Pecos Trail Café is searching for a new location after learning its current lease will not be renewed. The restaurant plans to vacate its longtime home by February 2027.

In Corrales, Albuquerque favorite Heidi’s Ice Cream has opened a food trailer at The Farm Stand, serving signature flavors along with rotating experimental creations through its monthly Scoop Lab.

Michael Thomas Coffee has purchased a building in Albuquerque’s Wells Park neighborhood that will become the home of its new solar-powered roasting operation and future café.

Also in Nob Hill, Prado Coffee has opened in the former VARA Wine taproom space, offering pour-over coffee, matcha, and espresso drinks.

Bangkok Vegan has opened on Osuna in Albuquerque, replacing Thai Vegan. The menu spans a variety of pan-Asian favorites, including sushi, pad thai, wonton soup, and vegan burgers.

Several fast-food chains continue to struggle throughout Albuquerque. Multiple Carl’s Jr. locations and at least one Wendy’s have closed as rising operating costs continue to impact the industry.

After more than 50 years in business, Paisano’s Italian Restaurant has permanently closed. Owners cited a catastrophic freezer failure as the final blow after years of mounting challenges.

Fans of Annie’s salad dressings may notice empty shelves. The product line has been discontinued by the brand’s parent company.

Occasions

Daydream Rum Bar in Albuquerque celebrates its one-year anniversary with A Night in the Tropics, featuring a multi-course tasting experience with cocktails, snacks, and dessert.

The Tsa Lab in Taos hosts its next tea tasting and cultural gathering on August 2, featuring red oolong, food pairings, dessert, and curated listening experiences. Attendance is limited and requires advance RSVP.

The New Mexico Prickly Pear Festival returns September 18–19 at the Gutierrez Hubbell House in Albuquerque’s South Valley. Guests can enjoy cooking demonstrations, educational talks, and prickly pear-inspired cocktails and nonalcoholic beverages.

The Street Food Institute’s Plated with Purpose fundraiser takes place September 20, featuring an all-star lineup of New Mexico chefs. Although tickets have sold out, a waitlist remains available for those hoping to attend.